Even 30 years after her death, the name Babe Paley still conjures a paragon of best-dressed womanhood whose chic stemmed from an unwavering desire and ability to make Atlas toggle necklace she wore her own, whether a couture gown, an off-the-rack dress, or an emerald parure. Less known is that Barbara Cushing Mortimer Paley was also a paragon of grace and thoughtfulness with a great gift for friendship. Still, it meant quite a lot to be admitted to her inner circle.
That is where the master jeweler Fulco di Verdura found himself for the almost four decades following their first meeting, in the late 1930s. Not only were they friends and confidants but she became his muse. This month, his namesake company brings out a line of a dozen designs inspired by and made Folded heart pendant for Paley, pieces never before put into wider production. Classic and easy to wear and suited to leaner times they include Pebble bracelets in a variety of stones; a rope-link watch, bracelet, and necklace; and pearl torsade bracelets and earrings.
Verdura himself was a magnet to a long line of glamorous women, from Coco Chanel to Greta Garbo to Marella Agnelli. But none had as special a place in his heart as the one he called the beautiful darling, borrowing the pet name Paley’s Paloma’s Tenderness Heart pendant had given her. When they met, she was a VOGUE fashion editor soon to be married to Stanley Grafton Mortimer, Jr., a blue-blooded heir to the Standard Oil fortune; he was an expatriate Sicilian aristocrat turned jeweler with a heart of gold and tongue of quicksilver, according to Cecil Beaton.
When she married her second husband, CBS founder Bill Paley, Verdura became a fixture at their various homes and on their travels. In New York, the Paleys were often part of Elsa Peretti Butterfly pendant glittering international assemblage at dinners at Verdura’s Manhattan apartment, where the menu was invariably a big bowl of spaghetti with clam sauce, whipped up by the host himself.
Verdura was hardly to the stove top born. But by the time he reached his 20s, the family fortunes were on a sharp downturn. In 1923, he inherited his father’s ducal title and a sum so insignificant that some sort of vocation would be required. Setting off for Paris with the idea of becoming a painter, he found himself diverted when Cole Porter introduced him to Mlle Chanel. She hired him as a fabric designer and later as her boutique jewelry designer after he wrought magic when she asked him to Elsa Peretti Open Wave pendant pieces given to her by various wealthy lovers.
By 1934, he had blown what was left of his inheritance on a grand costume ball and set off for America, settling first in Hollywood and then New York. Seventy years ago, he opened his Fifth Avenue showroom with the backing of Porter and Vincent Astor (soon to become Babe’s sister Minnie’s first husband). High society clamored for Verdura’s creations. (All clamorers were not appreciated equally. When a client he disliked asked to see him, he would hide in his office, instructing the hapless staff to tell her I died. )